SEX AND THE CITY
WARDROBE STYLIST PATRICIA FIELD OPENS A NEW MANHATTAN
RETAIL STORE
If
you’re familiar with Ms. Field’s fashion
sense you will know that this shop is a must stop
for fashion inspiration. You can pick up a relic
to copy or a frivolous feathered frock to contemplate.
Field’s original boutique was on Eighth
Street, then West Broadway and is now debuting
at 302 Bowery - between Bleecker and Houston Street.
The store is chock filled with graffiti art by
East Harlem artist James de la Vega, leopard-print
upholstery and pop-culture detritus. “There
are no doors in the dressing area, but that's
part and parcel of the Field philosophy, in which
the act of shopping ought to resemble a pajama
party — after which someone else will clean
up.” At the end of the month, Ms. Field's
fashion sensibility can be seen in the movie "The
Devil Wears Prada.”
If your fashion taste buds are at a low ebb,
get a boost from this funky retail space.
The New York Times article about Field’s
new store is below:
CRITICAL
SHOPPER
Patricia Field Gives New Meaning
to the Changing Room
By ALEX KUCZYNSKI
It’s
1992, and I am in a theater watching the new movie
everyone is talking about. The protagonist falls
in love with a woman who has rather broad shoulders
and an athletic build. I, a competitive swimmer,
keep hissing loudly to my friends: "Finally!
A movie that highlights the beautiful, muscular
form of the female body! It's about time!"
I see the broadly built female character as a
symbol of vindication. Women can be tall and strong
and still be attractive. But of course.
I eat my Raisinets in triumphant handfuls until
we get to the end of the movie, "The Crying
Game," and see that the woman with the shoulders
is actually a man in drag. A couple of weeks ago
I replicated the utter humiliation of that scene,
on a consumer level, in the new Patricia Field
store. Downstairs, past the footlong rhinestone-studded
cigarette holders, I saw a pair of sky-high stiletto-heel
boots in a fetching black and white graphic canvas.
"Cool," I announced to the sales clerk
standing nearby, who nodded, then cast a polite
sideways glance in my direction. Turning the boots
over, I saw that the sole read "Size N/A."
Not applicable? The taste of chocolate-covered
raisins rose in my mouth as the terrible truth
dawned: the boots were gunboats, far too big for
most women without a pituitary problem, so big
that mere numeric size was not even a relevant
concept. I had simply wandered into the drag-queen
shoe section of the store.
The worst part: the sales clerk had been polite
to me.
I should have expected nothing less. This was
Patricia Field, downtown purveyor of cross-gendered
chic. In the 80's and 90's, Ms. Field was the
doyenne of drag, her boutique on Eighth Street
the destination for anyone who was truly serious
about neon wigs, heavy-duty fishnet tights and
booty boosters, the padded panties that add a
womanly curve to otherwise unendowed buttocks.
Later her store moved to West Broadway, and her
résumé was burnished by a lengthy
run as the stylist for "Sex and the City,"
during which time she attempted to convince an
entire generation of women in their 30's and 40's
that it was O.K. to wear tube tops, newsboy caps
and Capri pants to the office. At the end of the
month, Ms. Field's hand can be seen in "The
Devil Wears Prada," for which she dressed
Anne Hathaway in Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel,
and a white-blond Meryl Streep in, natch, Prada.
(Earlier this week, Amazon introduced an online
boutique where you can buy a distressed-leather
studded La Rue handbag Ms. Field designed for
Ms. Hathaway's character, for $79.95. )
The new store on the Bowery occupies an anonymous-looking
spot on a stretch of bars, construction sites
and restaurant-equipment suppliers. The boutique,
in fact, sits beneath a façade that reads
"Pat's Restaurant Equip. Sales Repairs &
Parts. Se Habla Español." In lighter
lettering it reads "Patricia Field,"
and only the girls wearing curlicues of metallic
green eye shadow and smoking cigarettes out front
give away the shop's true identity. (Upon closer
inspection, it was not entirely clear they were
girls, nor that they could habla Español.)
Inside, the place is a riot of graffiti art by
the East Harlem artist James de la Vega, leopard-print
upholstery and pop-culture detritus. The tall
wooden screens that separate the dressing rooms
at the back are artifacts from the set of "Sex
and the City." There are no doors in the
dressing area, but that's part and parcel of the
Field philosophy, in which the act of shopping
ought to resemble a pajama party — after
which someone else will clean up.
"Girls, I mean boys, aren't allowed back
there anyway," the very helpful clerk told
me. A sign reading "Venus," which was
reclaimed from a porn theater in Times Square,
indicates the lingerie area. Downstairs in the
salon area, a hairdresser braided long blond strands
into a client's buzz cut, as portraits of Jacqueline
Onassis and Marilyn Monroe looked on, next to
shelves stacked inexplicably high with Hello Kitty
merchandise. (I personally prefer the Goodbye
Kitty merchandise, not on sale here, which has
a slightly darker bent.)
WHILE Ms. Field has dressed movie stars in high
fashion, no designer clothes are in evidence here.
Prices are relatively low, and the merchandise
is fanciful, continually stretching the borders
of good, bad and so-bad-it's-good taste. A chic
Upper East Side woman going for a Babe Paley look
— or, for that matter, a downtown drag queen
going for a Babe Paley look — could find
something here, like a pale gray silk-chiffon
embroidered poncho ($152) and a Kenneth Jay Lane
enamel giraffe bracelet ($78). And the nightclub
habitué or hotel heiress would find herself
perfectly at home with the studded metallic-pink
leather wallet by Ash & Diamonds ($218) and
the silk dress patterned with anchors and fastened
around the neck with gold rope ($238). For the
home there are Dirty Linens — sheet sets
printed with a toile de Jouy pattern of naked
men or women — and a white ceramic table
vase that appears to be made of three handguns,
pointed end up, so flowers poke from their joined
snouts ($62).
This is an object of such cultural dissonance
that it's difficult to pin down its meaning. Are
the flowers inserted into the gun barrels to evoke
a Vietnam-era message of protest and peace? On
the other hand, the vase looks as if it were assembled
from white ceramic Glocks, the hardware favored,
at least in the public imagination, by rap stars
and criminals.
Does it celebrate crime? Or turn what appears
to be criminal into a cartoon of domesticity?
Is it a symbol of dynamic male power neutered
and rendered powerless by the classically feminine
act of floral arrangement? Impossible to tell.
Mixing the message — mingling male and female,
high and low, art and not art — is the kind
of thing Patricia Field does best.
PATRICIA FIELD
302 Bowery (between Bleecker and Houston Streets);
(212) 966-4066
ATMOSPHERE Disco fun house.
SERVICE Good.
KEY LOOKS Drag queen visits the Hamptons; debutante
slumming it; Johnny Rotten meets Truman Capote.
Hair extensions encouraged.
PRICES Sequined beret, $18; Sarah zebra-print
silk top, $280; Patricia Field for Pro Keds metallic,
snakeskin-embossed high-tops, $86.
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