THE BALENCIAGA
RIDING HAT IS THE FASHION INSPIRATION OF THE SEASON
But,
according to Alexandra Shulman, editor of English
Vogue, most working women won’t wear one.
That, my headwear friends, is a problem (there
is a solution though – we’ll discuss
that in another conversation).
Here is what Shulman has to say on the subject:
“The accessory of this season is a Balenciaga
hat, the Bombe Feutre, costing £890 and
shaped like a riding hat crossed with a bowler.
If you have looked at any fashion magazines recently
you will have seen this hat, which bears a certain
resemblance to a pudding basin, teamed with any
number of cocoon coats and voluminous mini skirts.
“Last February on the Balenciaga catwalk
it accessorized all the outfits in what was universally
regarded as a stellar show. This appearance has
been hugely influential in promoting a large amount
of headwear in the shops this autumn. I very much
doubt, however, that you will be seeing that hat,
or anything close to it, on any of the successful
career women that people our newspapers and television
screens this winter.
“Condoleezza Rice, Margaret Beckett, Angela
Merkel, Cherie Blair, Nicola Horlick will, I expect
pass on this particular fashion accessory. But
nor are you likely to see them in skinny black
trousers, vertiginous platform heels, capes or
mini skirts, to list just a few of this season's
main fashion trends.
“Rarely, if ever, has the gap between what
is fashionable and what women who have to do business
in the real world wear, been greater.
Powerful and successful women working in all
areas of business have never been particularly
concerned with the fashions of the day. Bankers,
lawyers, politicians and journalists are rarely
clothes horses. Indeed, for a long time their
main aim in getting dressed in the morning has
been to adopt camouflage, so not to stand out
in the business world.
Traditionally, women around the boardroom table
are likely to be dressed in as close an approximation
of the clothes their male counterparts would wear
as they can get, without being in drag.
Shapeless jackets, suits, cotton shirts, black
trousers, black shoes and neutral tights have
been the uniform of choice for a long time. And
for many working women the only place you are
likely to find any kind of color or character
is in headscarves and handbags.
The stereotypical power dressing of the Eighties
was the closest fashion ever got to being in keeping
with business dress - a moment when shoulder pads
and suits were predominant.
It didn't last long. After a few years the Grunge
movement took over and if you wanted to be fashionable
you were in trainers and skinny bias-cut slip
dresses, you couldn't wear a bra under.
Recently, I have spent a lot of time sitting
in fashion shows. My fellow audience divides between
people like myself - the large majority - who
wear what are regarded as boring clothes; a pencil
skirt, a sweater, kitten-heeled shoes and a warm
coat, and those more obvious fashion followers
who wear something rather more on-trend; parka
coats with a fur tail coming off the back, hats
that tower into the distance, thigh length boots
and trousers as tight as leggings.
…I write there of extremes but the difficulty
of looking both fashionable and professional remains.
As working women our priority is to get the job
done and our clothes are likely to be largely
influenced by how that will best be achieved.
But women in the workplace are now so common
that it should be possible to be a bit more confident
than many are, and revel in the pleasure of dressing
and looking feminine instead of trying to hide
any sexuality.
Times are changing, though, and there is a move
towards wider experimentation and more personality
in dress. There is the march of progress but in
many industries it is still a slow march.
Take Condoleezza Rice. Condi is an excellent
example of a high-powered female politician who
has to look acceptable to everybody. Nominated
by American Vanity Fair as one of the year's best-dressed
women she likes tightly tailored suits, high collars,
long sleeves and low heels…
Last week I noticed that she addressed the White
House press corps in a chic soft jacket with a
huge white zipper down the front and racing stripes
down the side. She looked terrific. Her clothes
are not fashionable but she has created a definite
style for herself.
Alternatively, Segolene Royal, the Socialist
contender for the French Presidency, has a very
good line in pretty dresses and feminine blouses.
She favors separates over suits and wears her
hair long and loose. For those of us who don't
operate at such a high level, the daily question
of what to wear to work still causes problems.
Luckily, despite the catwalk paying zilch attention
to this question the amount of stores providing
clothes for women in the professional workplace
increases all the time and at all prices spectrum.
They offer a watered down and therefore more accessible
version of the trends. All you have to do is work
out which ones suit you…
You will also find trench coats with a bit of
contemporary detailing such as large buttons,
and soft tweeds that mould to the body rather
than stand out stiffly like the runway looks.
A few months back I was invited to a dinner at
the Foreign Office. The other women there were
all politicians, political wives or serious career
professionals. It was one of the hottest days
of the summer and we were all melting in our formal
attire. All the women were keen to talk clothes
to me despite the fact that what they were wearing
didn't necessarily indicate a huge interest in
this area.
I'm not recommending the Bombe Feutre to them,
but perhaps a higher heel, a shorter skirt and
definitely to ditch the sparkly shawl.
But you know what, they all had great manicures.
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