| THEY
CALL THEM WRAP STARS – WE CALL THEM A HIP
ALTERNATIVE TO THE BASEBALL CAP
The way I see it, everyone wants to cover their
heads these days. And after donning baseball caps
since birth, the young and hip are turning to
scarves, head-wraps, headbands and doo-rags to
make a fashion statement. Of course it is the
anti-fashion statement, but if you remember the
60’s we wore them then too. (I won’t
tell if you don’t).
This is what hipsters are saying: “The
headscarf is intimate, personal, an accessory
you have a relationship with, in the way a woman
doesn't even have with a pair of shoes,”
says Bali Barret, art director of Hermès'
silks, who counts 200 among her personal stash
and never leaves home without at least two in
her bag. "It's very feminine, textural, carries
your fragrance, allows you to wear colors and
patterns that you might not dream of wearing in
your clothes. Its association with style icons
makes it almost mythical."
Let’s face it, fashion or not, Willie Nelson
has been wearing a bandana for years and so have
rockers and hip hop stars. So it seems only fitting
that the fashion house of Hermes would want to
hitch up with this trend (scarves are part of
their heritage and claim to fame). Hermes has
900 designs created by a team of 40 artists -
each prototype requiring nine months of development.
Those in the know had this to say about them:
“Headscarves were also represented at the
runway shows of Cacharel and Yohji Yamamoto, Vera
Wang, Chloe, Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana and
Gharani Strok. And according to the media, “demand
is about to rocket.”
“As unlikely a contemporary accessory as
it may seem - with its historic references sending
out the mixed messages of being the style of monarch
and peasant woman alike, at times very Buckingham
Palace, at others more Coronation Street - the
headscarf is back.”
“The headscarf has become the accessory
of rehab chic, a kind of bohemian anti-fashion
fashion that alludes, in its seeming modesty and
the emphasis it places on a well-scrubbed face,
to a new-found purity in an impure world. Its
prim, repressed Joan Allen in Pleasantville. Only
now it's Lindsay Lohan, Britney Spears, Nicole
Richie, Kate Moss and Paris Hilton, all headscarf
regulars. Even Jennifer Lopez, cultivator more
of a sultry image than one of abstinence and restraint,
has covered up the locks.
”Certainly this is in the tradition of
head coverings, which have been regularly worn
in some form by women since the 14th century -
captured in tapestries and tombstone engravings
- through to the ribbons and bandeaux of the Regency
period. According to Sonnet Stanfil, the Victoria
and Albert Museum's curator of fashion, covering
the hair was considered the mark of a life lived
on the right path, an attitude that has trickled
down through the Judeo-Christian tradition that
sees headwear worn now only to church, at the
most formal family events or for the grand occasions
of the social calendar.
Perhaps the appeal of the headscarf is a reference
to the rock'n'roll bandanna-wearing spirit. It's
a look grown men attempt, with more of a post-Pirates
of the Caribbean theme drawing the likes of Johnny
Depp and Ashton Kutcher. "First and foremost
the headscarf is a very practical item: I wear
them on the beach and they're great for bad-hair
days," said Nargess Gharani, co-founder of
Gharani Strok. "But certainly there's something
eccentric about the headscarf still, something
that suggests a quirky or artistic sensibility.
That means you have to be self-confident to wear
one - like a hat, the headscarf can seem quite
bold, especially as it pulls back the hair and
frames the face. There's nothing to hide behind."
All depending, of course, on how the headscarf
is being worn. Tied under the chin and worn with
large sunglasses, the headscarf has provided the
archetypal disguise not only for the movies' leading
ladies - Audrey Hepburn, along with Jackie Onassis
a style icon who adopted the headscarf as much
in real life as in fiction, wears one to shadow
Cary Grant in Charade, for instance - but for
contemporary celebrities dodging the paparazzi.
To this end Madonna is a long-standing headscarf
fan. It may have worked in the 1950s, 1960s and
1970s, when headscarves were more commonly worn,
but today one is more likely to attract rather
than deflect, attention. After all, the headscarf
is, as Hermès poetically has it: "A
flag flying in the wind, a sail snapping on a
tall mast..."
Like a man's choice of a distinctive tie, not
to mention the way he ties it, so the many styles
of headscarf can speak volumes, too. There is
the “babushka", tied simply under the
chin. The "tie behind", which is knotted
behind the head. And then the most classic tie
of all: the “Kelly", the scarf wrapped
over the head, around the neck and tied at the
rear. It takes its name from Grace Kelly who,
while the popular imagination pictures her in
headscarf and white gloves, actually rarely wore
one, at least (with the exception of Mogambo,
when Clark Gable removes it in a scene symbolic
of sexual conquest) not on screen.
"The headscarf is somehow a very strange
accessory," said Fulvia Visconti Ferregamo,
who heads up the silk and scarves division for
Ferregamo. "It's suggestive of more glamorous
times and yet it's very classic. You don't have
to wear it on your head, but as a belt or just
tied to a bag. But what counts with a headscarf
is the way it is worn and tied. Each suggests
a different personality. And although life may
be much faster now and it's hard to find time
to look as sophisticated as women did in the 1950s,
something as simple as a square of silk can lend
a sense of elegance that can often be so hard
to find today."
I say you should add head scarves to match
headwear or make bands out of scarves that can
be worn as a headwrap as well.
We found a great company at the MAGIC
SHOW selling headbands in bright colorful
prints. Called Violet Love by Rebecca
Michaels (violetloveheadbands.com) this
young company had it together for the young hip
customer.
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