| IS THE CONSUMER
READY TO BUY WHAT’S MADE IN THE USA?
According
to a recent article in the New York Times, they
are. This comes as no surprise to me - although
the lure of Wal-Mart is very compelling. But when
you take into consideration the threat of tainted
toys and toothpaste, it is only a matter of time
before our innate patriotism breaks through our
need to save a few dollars.
That is good news for some of you – although
very few of you still make domestic goods (reality
has a way of creeping up on us). If you are so
inclined, read the following feature that explains
this newfound shift toward buying what’s
made in America.
Love It? Check
the Label
UNTIL recently, Bill Allayaud, who
works as a director for the Sierra
Club in Sacramento, thought people who checked
labels on clothing or toys to make sure they were
“Made in the U.S.A.” were everything
he was not: flag-waving, protectionist, even a
little xenophobic.
But lately, he said, he is becoming one of them.
“Everything I buy now, I look at the label,”
said Mr. Allayaud, 56, who explained that the
“buy American” movement — long
popular among blue-collar union workers and lunch-pail
conservatives — no longer seemed so jingoistic,
and was actually starting to come into vogue for
liberals like himself who never before had a philosophical
problem with Japanese cars or French wine.
He said the reasons for his change of heart are
many: a desire to buy as many “locally made”
products as possible to reduce carbon emissions
from transporting them; a worry about toxic goods
made in the third world; and a concern that the
rising tide of imports will damage the economy
and hurt everybody.
“Every time you see ‘Made in China,’
” he said, “you think, ‘wait
a minute, something’s not right here.’
”
“Made in the U.S.A.” used to be a
label flaunted primarily by consumers in the Rust
Belt and rural regions. Increasingly, it is a
status symbol for cosmopolitan bobos, and it is
being exploited by the marketers who cater to
them.
For many the label represents a heightened concern
for workplace and environmental issues, consumer
safety and premium quality. “It involves
people wanting to have guilt-free affluence,”
Alex Steffen, who is the executive editor of www.worldchanging.com,
a Web site devoted to sustainability issues, said
in an e-mail message. “So you have not only
the local food craze but things like American
apparel, or Canadian diamonds instead of African
‘blood diamonds,’ or local-crafted
toys.”
With so many mass-market goods made off-shore,
American-made products, which are often more expensive,
have come to connote luxury. New Balance produces
less expensive running shoes abroad, but it still
makes the top-of-the-line 992 model — which
the company says requires 80 manufacturing steps
and costs $135 — in Maine. A favorite in
college towns from Cambridge, Mass. to Berkeley,
Calif., each model 992 features a large, reflective
“USA” logo on the heel, and an American
flag on the box.
American Apparel, which carries the label “Made
in Downtown LA” in every T-shirt and minidress,
famously brought sex appeal to clothing basics
that are promoted as “sweatshop free.”
In the process it won the allegiance of young
taste-makers.
Many of the American designers now showing collections
at New York Fashion Week, which runs through Sept.
12, will have their goods stitched in foreign
factories, a reflection of the battering of American
garment manufacturing. From 2001 to 2006, clothing
production in the United States declined by 56
percent, the American Apparel & Footwear Association
said.
American high-fashion designers who do make clothes
domestically tend to be too small, or in the case
of Oscar
de la Renta and Nicole Miller, willing to
pay a premium in labor costs in order to maintain
strict quality control.
But these brands have yet to exploit the cachet
of “Made in the U.S.A.” in their marketing,
in the way that some non-runway labels have seized
upon. The designer Steven Alan, for one, while
avoiding the Bryant Park tents, makes his distinctive
rumpled dress shirts, which sell for $168, in
factories in the United States, many in New York
City. His “Made in the U.S.A.” labels
include an embroidered American flag, which he
said helps send a subtle message to his target
consumer — downtown, hip, discerning —
that his clothes are not just another mass-market
knock-off from Asia.
Even though it is not always justified, “there
is a perception that because it is made overseas,”
he said, clothing is produced to the “lowest
common denominator — there is not the attention
to detail.”
Any move by the affluent left to conspicuously
“Buy American” seems like an inversion
of the internationalist sensibility that it always
wore as a badge of distinction, said Robert H.
Frank, an economics professor at the Johnson school
of management at Cornell. These people tended
to be ardent free-traders as recently the Clinton
years.
“They always think of themselves as more
sophisticated,” Professor Frank said. “The
farther away something comes from, the presumption,
the better it is.”
The evolving image of many American-made products
as small-batch, high-craftsmanship products is
true in other connoisseur-friendly industries
as well. Fender, the guitar maker, builds entry-level
electric guitars in Mexico, but it still makes
higher-end Stratocasters and Telecasters —
including its hand-made Custom Shop models, which
sell for several thousand dollars — in California.
In bicycles, too, Schwinn and Huffy have decamped
to Asia, leaving high-end specialty companies
like Trek and Cannondale alone making bikes in
this country, where there is “a greater
sense of craft and small scale,” said Matthew
Mannelly,the chief executive officer of Cannondale.
The company recently started producing its “entry
level” bikes, priced $500 to $1,000, in
Asia, but says it still makes the bulk of its
product line — and its best bikes —
in Bedford, Pa.
The new prestige of “Made in America”
was not lost on Elizabeth Preston, a cycling advocate
in Washington. While Ms. Preston, 33 , said that
politically she is as “as far left as you
can go,” she nonetheless felt drawn to the
Handbuilt in the U.S.A. sticker on the $1,250
Trek road bike she bought for her boyfriend a
few weeks ago. Since then, she has been showing
off the sticker to friends.
“There’s something about the idea
of the workmanship and supporting the United States’s
economy,” she said.
Stephanie Sanzone, a graduate student in environmental
policy at George Mason University, says she has
seen ample evidence that a “buy American”
attitude is expanding.
Ms. Sanzone, 47, who lives in Alexandria, Va.,
started the Web site www.stillmadeinusa.com
three years ago to list and promote American-made
products, for environmental and economic reasons,
she said.
Unlike many “Buy American” Web sites,
which feature images of weeping bald eagles or
quotations from Pat Buchanan, Ms. Sanzone, a Democrat,
keeps her site nonpartisan. In the last month,
she said, traffic has jumped fourfold, with new
visitors including vegans, green shoppers, “Free
Tibet” activists and visitors from the Web
site democraticunderground.com.
Many said the recall of Chinese-made toys inspired
them to act, but many also told her that they
were starting to expand their focus beyond toys.
“I’m getting all these impassioned
e-mails saying, ‘I’m never going to
buy anything made in China again,’ and it
really is from a different crowd,” she said.
The recent recalls of Mattel toys, made in China
with lead-based paint, prompted many parents to
seek American-made toys. Joan Blades of Berkeley,
Calif., president of MomsRising.org,
a mothers’ rights advocacy group with 100,000
members, predicts many parents are going to be
checking labels and favoring American-made products,
even if they are as simple as wooden blocks, as
the holiday season approaches. “I think
more and more mothers are going to be particularly
distrustful of goods made in China,” she
said.
Indeed, some domestic companies, such as Stack
& Stick, which produces building blocks, or
Little Capers, which makes superhero costumes,
are working American flags and “Made in
the USA” messages into their advertising,
as well as marketing themselves as a safe alternative.
Skeptics say there are limits to how far the
National
Public Radio demographic will go as it flirts
with a cause long associated with the Rush
Limbaugh crowd. It is hard to imagine, say,
that people who tote reusable cotton bags to Whole
Foods will ditch their beloved Saabs for an
American-made Chevrolet Cobalt.
“People like that don’t even know
where the Chevy store is,” said Ernie Boch,
president of Boch Automotive in Norwood, Mass.,
who operates Honda, Subaru and Toyota
dealerships in the Northeast. “It’s
kind of like people who stay at the Four Seasons.
They’ve heard of Motel 6, but they don’t
stay there. It’s not part of their vernacular.”
Nonetheless, the new interest from yuppies in
seeking out domestically made products is evident
to traditionalists like John Ratzenberger, best
known as the actor who played Cliff in “Cheers,”
who grew up in the factory town of Bridgeport,
Conn., and is now the host of “John Ratzenberger’s
Made in America,” a Travel Channel show
that celebrates craftsmanship at factories.
“When we started doing this show, we were
accused of being xenophobic, flag-wavers,”
said Mr. Ratzenberger, whose show began five years
ago. “The more we did our show, the more
people are looking around in their own towns,
realizing once these companies close, it’s
going to affect the fabric of their communities.
Things they took for granted, like sponsors for
Little League for example, aren’t there.”
“This,” he said, “goes right
across the political spectrum.” |