ANDY GILCHRIST ANSWERS MEN’S FASHION QUESTIONS FOR MRketplace.com

Andy Gilchrist is one fashion savvy fellow. His website and clothing forums get 640,000 hits a day and he has over18,000 forum members. Gilchrist started the site in 2001 after retiring from the corporate world. He is also the author of the encyclopedia of menswear.

We recently met Andy at the MAGIC Show and found him to be as charming and down-to-earth as the best of them. We deemed Andy one of the good guys – and that’s something to be happy about.

Here is the latest Gilchrest interview about men and their clothing with MRketplace.com

Is your most popular question still about socks and trouser matching? What questions have come up lately that have surprised you?
It is still high on the list of questions. Recently I’ve been asked why golf shirts didn’t have a pocket, some questions about shell cordovan, how to launder out perspiration stains, the best fold for a pocket square with a tuxedo. I get a lot of questions about strange dress codes on invitations (“Classically Elegant”).

I get questions about what to wear on cruises and where to find a pants creaser or the best steamer. Not too many surprises, except questions like “where can I buy a spread collar shirt?” or “What are cuff links?” Really!

Why do you think your website is so successful?
Luckily, it coincided with a renewed awareness that how you look has an influence on others. Guys can’t or don’t sit around together drinking a beer or working and discuss clothes. Even if they’re interested in clothing, guys don’t say “Wow, those are great pleated pants I really like the fabric and drape! Where did you get those?”

Men are trained by society that they shouldn’t care so much about their appearance. Too much fussing is not masculine. So when my website was introduced there was a Forum (chat room) where you could actually talk to other guys (anonymously!) about clothing. You could get tips on what was the right thing to wear to your friends wedding. Who and where else could you ask?

Do you think the average American man is more educated about clothing than he was when you started your website?
Yes, but the lack of men’s clothing education is what drives them to my website. Somehow we lost that link between father and son of passing down clothing knowledge.

The education about men’s clothing that didn’t come from our fathers used to come from the men’s magazines. I have some old issues of Esquire that have sections explaining, for example, sweaters—the styles, how to wear them, how to take care of them, the differences in wool.

Now all the men’s magazines try to do is sell us on whatever their advertisers are pushing, and telling us that a new pink sport jacket is the latest thing to wear to a business meeting. It’s harmful and disrespectful of their readers and their readers know it.

Menswear retailers—like everyone in retail—are having a hard time getting customers in the door. Any advice? Has the economy affected the way you shop?
I would shop in any economy! But I’m slightly weird that way (must be those shopping genes—but mine are wool not dark denim!). I go shopping almost every day. Don’t always buy anything.

Men are historically (prehistorically) hunters. We should love going out and hunting for just the right sport jacket! Seems we have a bad rap for that and maybe it’s because clothing is something our mothers and wives bought for us. But ask a guy to go shopping for a car or electronics and he’s out the door.

Men like to shop quickly. They don’t want to be helped. I’d advise retailers to make sure the prices on every item are clearly marked and that there are big signs up with categories (Suits, Ties, Shirt, Belts). When I pick up a pair of trousers I want to be able to easily and quickly find the size, price, what fabric it’s made of, the benefits (wrinkle free, etc.).

Make the store welcoming and fun. How about an espresso machine for customers?
I always thought if I had a men's store, I’d only sell “outfits” (which is a women’s term, maybe for men it’s “ensembles”). A complete ensemble would be displayed in the store—shirt, pants, belt, sweater, socks, shoes, etc. And the gentleman could just say I'd like #6 in an XL, 32 x 32 pants, 10 shoe, etc.